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Looking for traditional Filipino <i>sisig</i>? Head to Carson

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Name: Pinoy Food Republic

Chef: Ruel Hernandez is from a small, verdant farming village in the Batangas province of the Philippines, where mangoes, coffee and coconuts are bountiful. He’s been cooking since he was 7 when he helped prepare meals for the family by chopping vegetables. Since moving to the U.S. more than a decade ago, Hernandez has pined for the street food of the Philippines. His Pinoy Food Republic in Carson brings some of those traditional Filipino flavors to Southern California.

Concept: It’s a turo-turo or “point-point” in Tagalog. It’s a concept from the Philippines that involves diners pointing out what they want from a display of food. At Pinoy Food Republic, you stroll up to the steam tables and tell the server on the other side of the buffet what you’d like on your combo platter. Take your pick from adobos to pinakbet (mixed vegetables steamed in a fish sauce) — even balut, the infamous boiled duck embryo.

From 5 to 10 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, the outdoor grills are fired up and rolled out into the parking lot. For $1 an item, you can eat Pinoy street food such as grilled pork and chicken intestines called isaw. This is where you’ll also find Filipino snacks with odd monikers such as Adidas (chicken feet), Betamax (pork blood squares) and Walkman (pig ears).

What dish represents the restaurant, and why?

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Sisig, because the chef uses pig head to make it. That critical ingredient is omitted in most sisigs in Los Angeles (made with other parts of the animal). Also, Anthony Bourdain recently proclaimed this porky delight as his favorite Filipino street food.

For those unfamiliar with sisig, here’s a primer: In the Pampanga province of the Philippines (where sisig is believed to have originated), the best bits of a pig’s head, such as the ears, snout and cheeks, are simmered in seasoned water along with pork belly and liver. Then the ingredients are chopped into tiny pieces and fried in a pan until crispy. Salt, pepper, soy sauce, chile peppers and calamansi (a lime-like citrus) are worked in for taste, while mayo, egg and sometimes pig brain are used as a binding agent, and to add creaminess. The result is a flavorful and texture-rich crispy, tart pork dish. Heap it on steamed rice to eat.

Runner-up: For even more down-home and hard-to-find Filipino flavor, try the goto, a.k.a. offal in rice porridge. Beef tripe, intestines, lung, heart, bile and some meat bits all swim in congee for your eating pleasure. Bring a hangover along, if you have one.

Who’s at the next table? Carson locals who miss the street food of the Philippines.

Uh oh: Even though the chef describes his food as pairing well with beer, there is none served. Sorry, no San Mig.

What are you drinking? The only other beverages worthy of genuine Pinoy street food are Sarsi, a Southeast Asian sarsaparilla soft drink, and Royal Tru orange soda, a Filipino original. You’ll also find fresh melon juice, coconut juice and gulaman, a seaweed-derived jelly drink.

Info: 22200 Main St., Suite. C, Carson, (310) 952-9878

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