L.A. Times - Food & Dining

Wine of the Week: 2007 Rainoldi Valtellina Superiore 'Inferno Riserva'

By S. Irene Virbila — Sat, 19 May 2012 00:00:00 PDT

This is an elegant expression of Nebbiolo (here called Chiavennasca) from one ofItaly'ssmallest appellations in the mountains near the Swiss border. Valtellina has several sub-zones, the best known of which is the wonderfully named "Inferno."

Counter Intelligence: Umamicatessen in downtown L.A.

By Jonathan Gold — Fri, 11 May 2012 12:31:00 PDT

A wealth of imagination is on the menu at the multi-kitchen restaurant: Rethink that pastrami sandwich, a bourbon cocktail, the PB&J.

Everyone knows that Langer's serves the best pastrami sandwich in town. Guidebooks say so. National magazines say so. The subway disgorges so many Langer's-bound fressers that it has sometimes been called the Pastrami Express. Many of us think Langer's serves the best pastrami sandwiches in the United States and consider any variance from its formula to be something close to heresy.

California Cook: The return of the butcher

By Russ Parsons — Sat, 12 May 2012 00:00:00 PDT

The art of meat cutting is being revived in L.A. It's part of the know-your-food trend.

The butcher is back.

Spain's flavorful seafood soups

By Janet Mendel — Sat, 12 May 2012 00:00:00 PDT

— At the village market, my friend Pepa buys a couple of small white fish, a handful of clams, a few shrimp. I ask what she's preparing. " Una sopa marinera, de pescado ," she replies. A fish soup. Nothing fancy, no complications, just a simple home-style fish soup, ready in minutes.

Video: Cookie ideas from the L.A. Times Test Kitchen

Wed, 9 May 2012 09:16:00 PDT

Looking for a little something sweet? We've got you covered with these cookie ideas from the L.A. Times Test Kitchen!

Wine of the Week: 2010 Calera Viognier 'Mt. Harlan'

By S. Irene Virbila — Sat, 12 May 2012 00:00:00 PDT

Calera is best known for its compelling Pinot Noirs, but the limestone soils of the Gavilan Mountains east of Monterey Bay work their magic on Viognier too. That's the genius of the site founder Josh Jensen chose for Calera Wine. This Viognier comes from the Mt. Harlan vineyard, first planted with the grape in 1983 and farmed organically.

Photos: 50 Mother's Day recipes

Fri, 4 May 2012 10:43:00 PDT

You know what Mom really wants this Mother's Day? Probably sleep. And breakfast in bed. And maybe a trinket or two. Here are 50 recipes to help please Mom, from the L.A. Times Test Kitchen.

Scones' wedge issue: Homemade beats pre-made

By Noelle Carter — Sat, 5 May 2012 00:00:00 PDT

The ingredients in a scone are few and easily put together. Leave the mixes and bakery-made ones for others. These simple steps will have you enjoying your savory or sweet treats in no time.

Scones are one of the basic pleasures in life. Like biscuits with a touch of added sweetness, the best scones are delicate and light yet somehow wonderfully rich, each bite suggesting bits of butter that have all but disappeared, leaving behind tender, flaky layers. A scone is a singular work of art, yet any sweet or savory flavorings just add to the magic.

Chinese fermented black beans a versatile staple

By Andrea Nguyen — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 00:00:00 PDT

The pungent, salty bits can lend subtle depth to a sauce or a savory bite to main dishes.

Wrinkly Chinese fermented black beans look as though they have just emerged from an archaeological site. Indeed, the salty, pungent little bits are an ancient Chinese staple. Made of black or yellow soybeans, they were once the only soy-based seasoning used all over China but nowadays are mostly employed in southern Chinese cooking.

The latest trend among chefs: Food tattoos

By Jessica Gelt — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:13:00 PDT

Michael Voltaggio, Carolynn Spence and seemingly everyone in the kitchen is linked by ink.

Michael Voltaggio has no idea how many tattoos he has. The question makes him laugh. The wise-cracking 33-year-old chef is pretty well covered. The name of his restaurant, after all, is Ink. Before dinner service on a recent Friday, Voltaggio plays around with an insulated bucket of liquid nitrogen, dipping his hand in it and tossing the residue on the floor where it morphs, CGI-like, into little rolling marbles of chemistry before dissolving into wisps of smoke. He laughs like the 15-year-old kid he was when he got his first covert tattoo, a crude three-leaf clover on his ankle.